She’s strong, dynamic, agile and, most importantly, successful: this year Jenny Lavarda is climbing her way from one win to the next. In interview, the 23-year-old double World Champion from Italy gives us an insight into the world of competitive climbing and also gives us a few tips on how to cut a fine figure as a leisure climber as well.
Assuming I’m a complete beginner facing a climbing wall for the first time – what do I need to pay particular attention to?
I think the main mistake everybody makes the first time is using arm power only. On the contrary, the role of the legs is very important, not only to push you higher, but also for keeping the right balance.
How does a professional climber warm up? Are there any particular exercises that a climber absolutely has to do before attempting the wall?
Each climber has his own preferences. Personally, I do 10 to 20 minutes of running and half an hour of stretching. That’s quite a lot, but it helps to kill time when I am in isolation before a competition. Before training at home I follow the same warm-up routine, only a little bit shorter.
Which physical attributes would I need to be a competitive climber?
All climbers are thin and tonic. Height does not really give you an advantage or disadvantage in climbing. Of course, if you have long arms and legs, you stand a better chance when the holds are far apart from one another. But, in these cases, smaller climbers compensate for this with greater strength, dynamism and agility. You obviously need a lot of strength in your fingers, but that is something you acquire only with training and does not depend on physical characteristics!
Which muscles are used with particular intensity in climbing? How can I develop the necessary power?
Strong forearms, biceps and shoulders are essential for climbing. To train them I work a lot with the “travo”, a sort of big hold with different combinations of holds. Another important tool is the “Pan Gullich”: a special wooden panel with catches every 20 cm and where you work only with your arms and hands … no feet!
How difficult is it to switch between different disciplines such as indoor and ice climbing – and which skills are important for all disciplines?
Well, ice climbing has one major difference: the axe. In free climbing, you do not have any tools except for your own hands, whereas with ice climbing you almost have to use the axe as an extension of your body. But the movements are more or less the same. I notice a bigger difference between Boulder and Difficulty than between ice and free climbing. Boulder requires explosive power and dynamism, while Difficulty requires much more resistance.
What can you do if you want to climb but don’t like heights? Is it even possible, or is it advisable to choose a different hobby instead?
Boulder can be an option: you have small walls with many different holds but you do not go very high. And after a while, I am sure you will not be frightened by the height anymore.
Jenny Lavarda
Jenny Lavarda
Jenny Lavarda
