ࡱ> z|ya sjbjbtt $m****$ND" """"""",#R%C" C" "X" " " " " "| " " " " *&*!| " " n"0" "& "& " "$** NEW ZEALAND If you are brave enough to bear the sub zero air temperatures and 5 degree waters of the South of New Zealand during the months of May through to September you can get a taste of what some of the largest waves on the planet might look like. However, this year, on the rarest of occasions, a low pressure system, hurling itself up from the deep Artic region pushed a huge SW swell of unbelievable magnitude towards the South Island of New Zealand during the summer months. It is on these very rare occasions that you can get a taste of the South Pacifics potential without having to withstand the mind numbing elements that New Zealand is capable of in the winter. I was having dinner in Maui on a Friday night with the boys when the discussion of New Zealand came up. Campbell Farrell a homegrown New Zealander, now living in Maui and a good friend of mine had told us a handful of tall stories of a place in the South island of New Zealand called Papatowai. A big wave location, home to the brave few that are willing to endure freezing temperatures and sub zero winds just to get a taste of pure adrenalin. With a latitude of 46.6 degrees South, its no wonder that some of the biggest storms on this planet slide past New Zealands coastline. We all sat and listened to Campbells depiction of this cold water hellish spot. That very next morning I get a call from Campbell, IT`S going to be on he said Whats gong to be on I said. Papas he said, with a stunted hiccup in his voice, no doubt from the alcohol consumed from the night before. Your joking, its February. How can there be a swell that big In the middle of New Zealands summer I said. Mate, check out the maps and call me back. Its going to be big on Monday With that said, I checked the maps for myself. He was right! All the forecasts predicted huge south swells hitting the south island with winds forecasted around 15 to 18 knots offshore and then swinging side shore around mid morning. It was an opportunity too good to pass up especially when the water temperature would be quite mild for that time of year. I called Robby Swift immediately and asked if he wanted to come with me. You want to go to New Zealand for a big swell I said on the phone. For sure Robby said. I have been trying to hook up with Robby to do a story for quite some time now but because of his commitment to the racing events as well as all the wave events it made it extremely difficult to connect without any prior obligations. I called immediately to check for ticket availability and see if we could get down theyre in time for the swell. There were only two airlines that fly down to NZ and they both operate just 2 days of the week. Air New Zealand was booked solid leaving Air Pacific as our only choice. Lucky for us they flew down and arrived into Queenstown the night before the swell but unfortunately they did the gravy train run, stopping in Nandi, Fiji then eventually arriving into New Zealand late Sunday night. Tickets were also a whopping $2500 a seat! With time running out and the weekend around the next bend we all decided to book the tickets and pray it was the right move. If you have heard the term rolling the dice , then chances are your probably a windsurfer! There are just so many elements that need to happen simultaneously to capture a perfect day, and then some. Just think for a second and consider all the elements that a windsurfer needs to complete a successful trip. Wind and waves are a given but then throw in direction of the wind and swell and the odds start stacking up against you! If the storm just moves a little in the wrong direction it could turn that peeling right-hander into a full-blown closeout. If you want to take it a step further then consider the weather conditions. Is it going to be sunny or is it going to rain. ? Is the sun going to be in the right place for the photographer or are we going to be silhouetted by the sun? What happens if the equipment does not arrive with your flight, or you get sick on the flight! Sometimes I think I would have more luck winning big in Vegas playing the slot machines than catching that perfect day on a windsurfer. I guess thats what makes it so fun when you do score and you begin to appreciate and capitalize on those memorable days. The last truly epic day I can remember was over one year ago, when myself and Robby Nash went to Back Yards on the North Shore of Oahu. Thats how long its been my friends! Youre probably sitting in your car or at home reading this article saying to yourselves how lucky these fuckers are to be scoring insane waves all the time. Well let me tell you its not like that at all. ! For every great trip there are 3 bad ones that dont even go to print. Sponsors get pissed not too mention what a waste of time and money it was for us. Information is everything especially when your going to a place that is so isolated and has never been windsurfed before. We called some of Campbells most reliable sources and got answers like, come down here mate, its going to be fucken on, hey mate. Fuck mate hey. Campbell would then say but what about the wind strength and the direction They would reply once again come down here mate, its going to be fucken on, hey mate. Fuck mate hey. I started to think that maybe we should ask some other people down there that might have something more too say. We called friends of their friends and we got the exact same answer word for word, literally. Its like thats the best most significant explanation you could possibly get from the locals, anything more was just impossible. With our flights now booked it did `not matter anyway. We were just looking for reassurance. We spend much of Saturday preparing and consolidating our equipment for the flight down to NZ due to the heavy restrictions on excess baggage. Upon our arrival into NZ I was still getting calls from friends asking if we wanted to go bike riding or go stand up paddling back on Maui. We had no time too tell any of our friends what we were doing which was kind of funny. It took us 32 hours too get from Maui to Papas which is in the Catlins, South of Dunedin on the South Island. We arrived just after midnight, tired and just wanting too get some sleep. The swell was hitting in just 6 hours and we only had a few precious hours to sleep before we had to hit the water. First light saw very light offshore winds outside our bedroom window so we pilled into the cars and drove up to get our first glimpse of what Papatowai had in store for us. Anticipation turned immediately to disappointment upon our first look at the water. The lines were broken up and messy and not really that big from where I was standing. It was a long way but you could see there was something wrong. We looked at each other but no one said a word. We all had the same pale look in our face. 33 hours of traveling too get this shit was written on all our faces. Swift turned to me after a while and said, Its definitely not warm, I turned to him and said your not wrong about that. I think we were both too scared to talk about the larger problem that was slowly growing as the sun rose higher in the sky. Where was the wind and what had happened to the swell? We decided to jump into the cars and go back to the house. I just v lined it straight to my bed and pulled the covers over my head wishing I was back in Hawaii. I swore right there and then that I would never listen to another surf report again. I closed my eyes and tried to think about something else. An hour must have rolled by when Campbell came into the room and said to me come on. Get up mate. Lets go and look at it again. You never know what could happen down here I said your joking right. Its shit out there Lets just look at it again, he said. I agreed and back we went again. This time a single ski was out there towing in the line up and the waves seemed to be straightening up a bit. I watched as the ski and surfer caught their first wave. I turned too Robby and said, is that guy a midget out there or is that a 15 foot wave breaking right now Robby smiled and said, I think it is. We were looking at it from so far away that there was no perspective to gauge the size, but now that the ski was out there it looked massive. I started to freak out but the wind did not seem quiet strong enough. We jumped in the cars and drove directly to the river mouth where we could launch the skis and at least give it a try. We made the decision to carry our equipment down to the beach which was a long walk and then use the skies to taxi us to the outside break where we would rig up. We gathered our gear and set off walking down this huge grass hill with no track to guide us. I lead the way trying to work out the best way to reach the beach. A track would have been nice but it was more of an adventure as it was. It expressed just how remote this spot really was. The lower we got the larger the surf got till the point we were we could only see white water. Campbell and his buddy Miles both came in together to jetty us to the outside break. There was a lot of current and kelp bands lay on top of the surface like large bands of spaghetti on a dinner plate. By this point you have to have your shit together physically and mentally. Its hard to arrive at a big wave break and assess all the problems in the space of a few hours especially when the break is so far away from the car park. I could see two parts to the wave. The first main outside section hit the reef and just stood up and barreled like Jaws does. The second part of the wave would be the inside part. The wave would get fat and would turn on itself a bit and a new slab of water would stand up and catch you unaware sometimes if youre not paying close attention. The wave would peel down the line and was more of a workable ride than the main peak. It still had a bit of a weird lump on it and some waves did not connect to the inside but it was big and thats ultimately what counted. Rigging up in the water was a whole new problem compared to Jaws. At Jaws you are in a huge deep channel and you can take your time to ensure everything is ok. Out here there were rouge sets breaking in the middle of the ocean. There was just no safe place to sit so we decided to help each other rig one at a time, keeping a close look out for rogue waves. The wind and water were cold even in a 4/3 wetsuit. I just wanted to get on my gear so I could warm up. At the start we were just sticking to the main peak trying to pick off the bomb sets and drop in super late and bottom turn around the huge sections. By mid morning there was a small group of local tow surfers that had gathered upwind of the peak and were also making a bid for the set waves. It became apparent after a while that a big set would hit every 20 to 30 minutes and both myself and Robby, along with the other tow surfers wanted those set waves. We took the first few bombs but then as the day went on the tow surfers wanted all the bombs to themselves Robby and I both pulled off our fair share of set waves that day, and finally, after a certain amount of frustration, we agreed it was time for us to have a crack. I took a bomb wave from the outside and I could already see one ski start up and make its way towards the line up. I decided not to pull off the wave as I had done a number of times and as the Jet Ski cut across me and the surfer let go of the rope I managed to jump the ski rope that was in front of me and then drop into the wave super late along with the surfer. The local surfer was super pissed with me at the end of the ride and shouted out to me. I asked him what his problem was and he said he did not feel comfortable sharing waves with me. The rest of the day was a battle between taking the good set waves and being respectful towards the surfers, considering that we were in there realm. They had not seen a windsurfer out in real waves before especially at their premiere big wave spot. Im sure they would never in a million years have expected a windsurfer to be out in those conditions at that particular spot. I am always a bit hesitant at the start of a windsurf session especially when you have never been there and its 15 to 20 feet. You wonder how badly the hold downs are going to be or if there are any ledges under water that you could get hit by or get stuck under. My confidence grows during the day and I could see Robby pushing himself as well. I remember catching the first bomb and then gibing out into the channel. I turned my head towards the peak to see Robby dropping in super deep on solid15 footer. As I climbed the wave towards the shoulder I could see Robby start his bottom turn with a huge section that he had to navigate around. I thought to myself fuck yeah and immediately decided that the next wave I caught had to be deeper than his, if that were possible! I think I must have gone a bit too deep on one of the set waves because I had a solid wipeout. I dropped in with a surfer and he kind of stuffed me super deep and the lip caught my clue. I got rolled pretty hard but it was not too bad. My gear on the other hand was completely destroyed with no possibility of getting extra gear. Robby sailed over and said Im glad you broke all your stuff because I cannot hang on to this boom anymore. I had hardly noticed that we had been sailing for over four hours. We made our way back to the boat ramp tired and sore but adrenalized at the same time. Robby and I both wondered how the local surfers would handle the situation so we decided to stick close to Campbell as he has a lot of clout down here. All the boys gathered at the ramp and one of the guys that was out there turned to Campbell and said hey mate that was fun, hey. With that single statement I new everything was ok and later on learned that the guys down there are super nice. They are true New Zealanders that dont have a chip on their shoulders like the crew in Hawaii or California. We said our farewells to all and hit the highway, making our way to Dunedin which was about a 2-hour drive. Fly by the seat of your pants adventures are some of the best times you will have and our arrival into Dunedin was to be no exception. Firstly we had to find a place to eat at 10 pm, which was near impossible as everything closes at 9pm. Then, we wondered the streets for about hour trying to find somewhere to crash for the night. We found an old pub that had a few rooms up stairs with a communal bathroom and shower. The place was called Heifers. I kid you not! I was expecting too see some naked fat chick grinding away on some spare ribs and knocking down a slurpy when we walked in the front door. Our room was the gutsiest room ever. Neon lights shined through our window and the beds were so old that the coils poked through the mattress. We were all so tired by then we would have been fine with sleeping in the car! Next day we were up again at 6am and on our way to a place called Green Island, a small Hersheys Kiss shaped mound about 2 miles offshore and a sanctuary to abundant wild life. Penguins, seals and birds congregate there year round, feeding on the vast eco-system bellow. The only draw back to the wonderful sight of this wildlife were the monster sharks that constantly patrol the area. We met with some of Campbells friends who had brought the skis up from Christchurch. One of Campbells friends was Doug Young who recently got the sickest spread in Surfer Magazine of himself dropping in super late inside the tube on a monster set at Teauopoo. With him aboard we were guaranteed to see some great visual entertainment. From a distance it looks like the island does not provide any tapered reefs for surfing. Waves could be seen just closing out onto the rocky kelp ridden rocks but upon closer inspection there are actually 3 breaks around the island that provide small keyholes so you can get a good ride and then get picked up by the ski. The first wave was a perfect barreling right-hander and all of us were so keen to hit the water. Because Campbell had given up his right to surf the previous day in order to be a driver for the photographer, it was only fair that he had first surf. I towed him into the first 6-foot bomb and he got a solid barrel. The second wave he got even deeper but his nose-dived in when he came out of the tube and he got hammered. I picked Campbell up and asked if I could have one wave. I was so exited. Big barrels and towing with a few mates is the thing I like to do the most. I grabbed the rope and caught my first wave. I had a nice pig dog tube and wanted another. We sat out the back and waited for another. We waited and waited but nothing came through. The swell direction or tide must have changed because the swell just vanished. We should have been here earlier, I said By the time Doug got out there it was like the wave on that part of the reef had never existed. You could have bathed your 4-year-old child in that area it was so calm. I felt bad because Robby had not even had a chance to get a wave before it went flat. Doug said that on the higher tide the other side of the island would have this nasty right hand barrel so we cut our losses and decided to head back for lunch and wait for the tide to cooperate with our plans. When we got back to the beach some of Dougs mates had the local New Zealand paper with the front page displayed of this huge wave breaking over a harbor wall. The heading said, Huge swells hit the South Island. Some unlucky crazy French sailors were trying to win the Jules Verne Trophy, a race to set a new record for a round the world voyage in a huge 60-foot trimaran but unfortunately capsized 80 nautical miles off the South island and had to be rescued by Navy helicopter. They were half way around the world and had been traveling for over 20 days. One of the crewmembers, a Frenchman had wiped out 3 times before trying to break this record. After a quick bite we raced back to see this gnarly right-hander working. Doug was already catching waves so we went to the inside to watch him catch a few and witness some good old-fashioned carnage. The waves were super hollow with 2 and 3 lips converging on one another, eventually exploding onto a super shallow ledge. We watched in horror as Doug dropped into the first wave and tried to pull into one of the 3 barrels that were emerging on the face of the wave as it hit the reef. The wave was just about as unreadable as you could get. There were sets coming in every 10 minutes but a lot of them were breaking too wide or others were the wrong direction for the shape of the reef. Wave selection was critical if you were to have a chance at making this insane wave. Any normal person would not even consider it a ride-able wave but Doug told us it was New Zealands premiere spot. Seals lined the shoreline watching the show as if they were there for only that reason. I swear I heard them clap when Doug wipeout on his first wave. As the day went on more Penguins and Seals arrived. They started walking up the bank higher and higher as if to get a better view. One Penguin was at the very top of the island, how the fuck he got up there with those little flippers I will never know! I turned to Robby with a smile and said Its your turn mate, and threw out the tow rope. I really felt I had Robbys life in my hands at that point. The ledge was only about 20 feet wide and so shallow at times you could have hopped across it with out getting your shoes wet. It was critical to tow him into the right spot! Robby either has a lot of confidence in my selection of waves and driving skills or he is a little crazier than I had originally thought. I towed him out the back and we both awaited our fate, only it seemed Robbys fate was somewhat of a higher risk than mine sitting comfortably on the ski. The first bomb came through and I could hear a shriek from Doug on the other ski. Game on I yelled out as we made our way to the ledge. I flicked him in and he disappeared. I could not see what was going on because I was on the backside of the wave. It was just impossible to tow him in with the ski on the inside. I would have ended up on the kelp ridden ledge that juts out of the water soon after the wave breaks. I got a good gauge of Robbys performance by simply watching the faces of Campbell and the few other locals that were watching in the small keyhole. I towed Robby for about 45 minutes before the spot went off the boil. We sat out there again and nothing-substantial came through. I began to release that the waves down here are very fickle and you can never count your chickens before they hatch! You have to know the swells intrinsically and the tides and be there when everything is lined up. We all decided to call it a day considering Robby had only suffered minor injuries and we all did not want him to be hospitalized even though it would be great for the story. With only 48 hours under our belt in NZ we had accomplished more than most would do in a month. By the time we arrived back to the shoreline we were all very exhausted and ready for a good nights sleep. We decided to head back to Campbells house in Queenstown which is a fabulous bed and breakfast place right in the heart of Queenstown. If any of you guys are thinking of gong down to the South island of NZ I highly recommend that you say there. Its 5 stars all the way and can sleep as many as 12 people. Its called Taramea House and their web site is:  HYPERLINK "http://www.taramea-house.com/" http://www.taramea-house.com/ The next morning we awoke to a beautiful view of Queenstown and the surrounding mountains. It was a perfectly sunny day to do all the fun things that NZ is famous for. We had breakfast with a guy called Chuck Berry, one of New Zealands crazy base jumpers and a fellow Red Bull athlete. He took us tandem hang gliding, something I thought I would never do. There were 3 instructors that gave us the quickest crash course in safety I have ever seen. No doubt they were friends of Chucks! I did not mind anyway. I hate all that unnecessary bull shit about safety. To be perfectly honest if youre going to have a hang gliding accident then your pretty much fucked anyway. Campbell actually told us a story of one girl that was not strapped in properly and fell to death about a year ago. I sat on the hilltop at about 6500 feet and watched as Robby and his instructor strapped themselves in for the take off. The wind that day was almost dead calm which apparently is bad for flying, especially tandem. The glider struggles to get the lift it needs upon takeoff. Anyway, Robby must not have listened to the instructor properly because you are meant to run simultaneously together and then as you get to the drop off you lift your legs up and sink into the harness. Robby took one step forward and then lifted his feet immediately, leaving the instructor to run the last 30 feet on his own, carrying the weight of the glider and Robby. They took off at what seemed to be a snails pace and then just dive-bombed towards the ground. I watched in horror as they came with what looked to be an inch of the hillside before they got the speed to accelerate out of the dive. As I strapped in all that was going threw my mind was to run my little arse off until we got to the edge. I think I may have run too quickly because my guy seemed to have trouble keeping up with me. We all took off without incident and landed about 15 minutes later, feeling exhilarated and ready to go onto our next adventure. The Shotover River is famous for jet boating at high speeds through the narrow gorges and canyons so we had to give it a go. It was great fun but the absolute best part was when we totally sprayed some innocent white water rafters aboard a small dingy. These jet boats push out 800 liters of water a second out of the main jets so you could imagine how much water was propelled into their little dingy when we made a high speed turn to avoid them. Next was a late afternoon canyon swing, which was to be a real heart stopper for me. Campbell new the guys so we all had free jumps but what I didnt know was that Campbell had arranged a little surprise for me. It was pay back for what I did to him In Maui a month earlier. I had seen Campbell get out of his car at the gas station in Paia, leaving the car running and the door ajar. I immediately had the idea to steal the car and drive it off down the street. I jumped in while he was inside but his son of 11 years old was in the passenger seat. I said hi and told him I was going to play a practical joke on his dad. I drove off and apparently Campbell came out to see his car and more importantly his son gone. He freaked out when a by stander said some dude jumped in the car and drove off. The gas station called the police thinking it was a genuine kidnapping, until my girlfriend saw all the commotion and tried to explain to everyone that I had taken the car as a joke. By the time I got back everyone was frothing at the mouth, especially Campbell. He was so close to punching me but resorted to screaming before he jumped back in his car and sped off. In retrospect I guess is was pretty stupid thing to do! Anyway, we arrived at the platform where we were to jump off, and in case you dont know what a canyon swing is, its basically a long cable attached to another point in the distance with a lot of slack. You free-fall for a while then eventually the rope takes up the slack and you swing right out the other side like being on a really huge childrens swing. Little did I know that Campbell had told these guys the story about the car jacking and asked if they could get revenge on me. Because we were not paying customers they were able to do what they wanted with us without any legal ramifications. They firstly clipped the canyon swing cable to my pelvis area then put a garbage bin over my head and told me to hang on to it with my hands. They very slowly guided me out to the platform where I was to jump off. They span me around so I was disorientated and moved me left then right then left again. Once they new I was disorientated they said there was a problem with the cable line and they had to temporarily unclip me to untwist the cable. One guy hung onto me tight and told me not to move as the other reached inside my bin and unclipped the cable line that I was staring at, I remember feeling scared when they unclipped me as I thought it was a somewhat abnormal procedure. All of a sudden I felt a huge push onto my chest and was airborne. I shit my pants as I thought I was unclipped and going to fall into the water from about 800 feet. Unknowingly, during the spinning and turning, they had put another cable clip onto my backside that I was unaware of. When they pulled me up everyone was laughing especially Campbell who thought we were just about even after my car-jacking episode. The sun was setting and we had once again filled in about just about as much as one can do in one single day. We sat that evening with pizza and beers and reflected on what a successful and fun trip we had. I would like to personally thank Campbell for being such a great host and showing us some of what NZ has too offer in the 72 hours we were down there. I would have to say that New Zealand is one of the best places in the world that I have had the pleasure of visiting. New Zealand caters for every sort of person on this planet from the breath taking nature walks and panoramic views, to the most extreme snow boarding, biking, white water raftering, bungee jumping and big wave surfing and windsurfing on this planet. I recommend you all visit this place at some point keeping in mind that if are going to be there in the winter you bring a thick arse wetsuit ! Jason Polakow . 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